Highlights:
Outcrops of fossil-bearing sandstone in the remote, rolling, grassy hills of east Oregon. Three separate units:
Sheep Rock contains a historic homestead, viewpoints and short trails,
Painted Hills has amazingly colorful badlands and a scenic drive, while the small
Clarno Unit features a cliff face with fossils
Seasons:
Open all year though affected by snow during winter
Featured Hotel
Best Western John Day Inn
Traditional exterior corridor hotel offering an outdoor pool and free full breakfast. Along US 26, 35 miles from the Sheep Rock unit of the national monument
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Introduction
Rocks are exposed at many locations along the river valleys; outcrops of brightly colored sandstone and mudstone in alluring shades of red, yellow, grey and blue, and three of the most fruitful fossil locations are contained within separate units of
John Day Fossil Beds National Monument, a little-known NPS preserve named after the main river flowing through this region. This, one of the longest undammed rivers in the US is one of several locations in Oregon named in recognition of the achievements of
John Day, a pioneer hunter in the early 19th century.
As with other paleontological national monuments in the West like
Fossil Butte in Wyoming and
Florissant Fossil Beds in Colorado, fossils are for the most part not present in situ, having been removed when found; instead, the appeal of John Day Fossil Beds NM is in the scenery, of colorful badlands, eroded ravines and rugged cliffs, but also in the solitude and remoteness. The lack of any spectacular landscapes and the large distance from any well known places mean that few people visit, so the starkness and emptiness of the surroundings are enhanced by the general lack of people.
Fossil Beds Locations
The largest segment of the national monument is the
Sheep Rock Unit, extending 12 miles along the John Day River at the south end of highway 19, which joins US 26, an intersection 78 miles east of
Prineville, the nearest major city. Here are found a historic ranch, a museum and visitor center, several short trails to fossil sites and overlooks, plus one longer (3 mile)
loop around a deeply eroded ravine through blue-grey badlands. Thirty five miles west, the
Painted Hills Unit also contains fossil sites but the main point of interest is the beautiful, undulating, banded hills, variously yellow, brown and red in color, a landscape especially pretty near sunset. The smallest, most remote and least visited unit is
Clarno, 80 miles by road from Sheep Rock. This is centered on a cliff face on the north side of a John Day River tributary, in which are found a variety of embedded fossils. There is no entrance fee for any of the three units, no campground, and few facilities; apart from the visitor center, ranchhouse and museum at Sheep Rock, the national monument contains only trails, overlooks and picnic areas.